Tuesday, December 30, 2008

I Am Human

These are easy days. I enjoy the comforts of my home, my wife, my child. We stay in bed until we're rested and we eat when we're hungry. We are taking our cues from Lula who follows her needs like a compass.

But I feel limited in my abilities and aptitudes in this sphere. I can't feed my daughter but indirectly through Felice. I can clean, I can change diapers, but I know this isn't my core competency, to use a cliché phrase. I am best on a edge of a building, preparing to descend it's face, cleaning the windows in a meditative flow. I am best out in the world making children laugh, adults face beauty in spite of themselves. I am best listening to middle school students try to express themselves through poetry and movement. Until Tallulah is old enough to interact, I fear I'll feel inadequate and useless. My solution is to work, work, work. And sleep, sleep, sleep.

This is a common complaint among new fathers, I think. Feeling out of the loop, relegated to observation, hand waiting, feeling cooped. True to our nature we feel left out, without a role. But this is not about us, needy and wanting. This is about giving life and freedom to those who mean more to us than anything.

We have had our fun. Our running around, carefree. This is a new season. We do the furrowing, and the sowing, not just the reaping. I come of age as my girl comes into life.

I created a movie montage of photos from the pertinent points in Tallulah's and our lives. It begins in Spain, as did Lu. It follows the snowiest day of the year, and also the shortest. It documents birth, family, and joy.

I also wrote a song for my daughter, First Splash. It accompanies the video. Please enjoy.






All the Best from Five Happiness,

Bradley, Felicity, Tallulah, Marvin & Iggy

Monday, December 29, 2008

Further Evidence of Divinity

Richie told me about the "Pregnancy Points Game" he and his wife developed while waiting for their boy Oz to arrive. It goes like this: Each act of kindness he bestowed upon her, rubbing her feet, cooking dinner, cleaning the loo, was worth points. Five, ten, maybe twenty for an excellent seven course Italian dinner. The most points wins.

Delivering a baby is worth One Hundred Fifty Thousand points. Richie is still trying to win. He's at two-twenty.

I am also trying to win. However, a natural childbirth is worth Half a Million points. Attending and aiding the birth gave me as much as Richie has after nine months of his travails. I'm still only at six hundred and two. Eat that Costleigh! (No, I mean, that. Chicken Parmesan.)

But the little kindnesses I manage to orchestrate give deeper satisfaction than winning affords. As do those of our friends. Wes and Laura came by last night with their eight month old, Quentin. Laura made us a beef stew. We sat around watching Q play with Lu's toys, admiring both of their newness. What a treat! I realized how closed in we've been for the last week and a half, snow notwithstanding.

I am forcing myself to go out and do something completely unrelated to child rearing for a few hours to better appreciate these moments. They'll never come again. The moments, that is...not Wes & Laura. I hope.

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Tallulah's Family


Grandma Mansanarez, Brother Kirk, Felicity...





Brother-Man






Mother/Grandmother







Auntie Lacey







Grandma




And our extended family, the officers of Black Rock City Animal Control...




(clockwise from left: Stefan, Marshall, Winda & Oz (Lula's first suitor,) Gary (our driver), Heather (co-pilot), Sven, (keeper of the ceremonial tequilla), and Destiny, (Mother-in-Training)




Laura Loves Lula







Wesley Loves Lula







8-Way + F9 + 5 Happiness = Super Love




Without you we would be much poorer in spirit, (and spirits.)
We love you all. Thank you for all your support, friendship, laughter, and tenacity!

"Undrape! you are not guilty to me, nor stale nor discarded,
I see through the broadcloth and gingham whether or no,
And am around, tenacious, acquisitive, tireless, and cannot be
shaken away. "

-Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Tallulah Speaks

[Peering over edge of crib. Looking left, right, ensuring parents are fast asleep before delivering monologue]

Tallulah: Well, hello there. We have to be quiet. My folks are still sleeping, and they have bat-like radar for sensing if I even breathe funny. Which, I must admit, I do quite often. I like to snort, several times in a row as though I were one of those funny ladies being interviewed by Jessica on Murder She Wrote. "No, of course I didn't murder them in their sleep. (snort, snort snort,) I'm just a baby!"

This has been an unusual entrance for me. I was expecting the ticker tape parade the troops get after conquering some huge obstacle or foe. Well, that birth canal was HELL, let me tell you. And Mom didn't even let me pack a bag. It was just hanging out upside down sucking my thumb...or was that my toe? And then my waterbed just went "Floooey" and I ended up spelunking through her pelvis like Bear Grills in some bloody survival show. Luckily my rope held my weight and I made it through unscathed, though I was a shoe in for the youngest member of the Coneheads movie. Thank God for Doctors Without Cold Hands! I am prepared to give my college fund to these forward thinking physicians.

Dr. O'Neal caught me with Johnny Bench's catcher's mitt and tossed me on mom's belly before I had time to put my helmet on. Luckily she crowned me with a nifty knitted number, though the pink was a bit presumptuous. I prefer a mauve, thank you. My auntie Ali Bosie knows what I'm spittin'. Word to my Treestump.

But everyone was crying. Dad, (big wimp,) the doula, (just misty eyed,) Mom, (actually she was just in shock from my quick evac. I think she expected me to ask before leaving the house.) So all I could do was sit there looking around, waiting for the champagne and confetti. WTF people? It's been nine months. As if you didn't have time to prepare! Whatever. I'm so over it. Give me a tit.

So, here we are: I'm doing my best to get what's coming to me. That colostrum crap took way too much work to get. I had to claw my way through the nipple to get to the top shelf. But Mom's giving it up in a big way. I can eat whenever I want. All I gotta do is open my mouth, stick my tongue out a bit, and SLAM, I'm on the nipple. Areola firmly planted in the kisser. Mom makes some funny faces when I do, and I haven't learned the vocabulary she uses to express her joy at my buffet. Something about "Turrett's Syndrome... " I dunno.


Ooooohhh
, I think I'll poop. This'll be a gas! Then, when Dad comes to swaddle and change that paper towel he calls a diaper, I'll pull a Chuck Norris and kick him in the chin, or grab Mom's glasses and toss them behind the changing table! Yeeeeaaah! This is livin!

Oh no. I think they're about to wake up. Oh, wait. No, they're just snuggling. Puh-leeze. I guess it's time to demand some attention. Let's watch Heroes, or better yet, that DVD of Akira Dad just ripped. That scene with the melting teddy bears is boss! I love the crotch rockets! I hope Mom doesn't sell her SV 650. I think that should be the start of my inheritance.

[Yawn] Hmmmm. I really can't seem to keep my eyes open. I might just... [Falls asleep standing up. Dad cracks open one eye.]

Friday, December 26, 2008

The Land of Sleep...Nice Place to Visit. Too Bad You Can't Stay.



After a week of one to two hour bursts of sleep, peppered by Fussy Baby (tm) we seem to have fathomed subtle signs of the few significant issues concerning our daughter: Wet Butt, Starvation, Borborygmus Belly, and the vague but important What, You Don't Love Me?

We now achieve eight to ten hours of sleep per twenty-four hour period, which I'm told is an accomplishment. Hooray. I'm going back to bed.

But that is just how we do it. We wake, change a diaper, suckle, swaddle, and dip back into the sleepy pool for a few hours. Repeat until rested. Mornings start around 1 or 2 pm. But we end the day at 10 ready for bed but not exhausted. I can then accomplish some minor tasks such as writing this journal instead of cleaning the office or making money.

Actually, I'm on paid leave right now, as is Felicity. She's home for a while, but I go back to work in a couple weeks. This new life really fuels my labors with new vigor. No matter what I'm doing, I'm doing it as though Tallulah was watching, at my best for the first time since I met my wife. What a motivator, this little bug we made. She doesn't even know the power she wields. Probably for the best. I'm sure she'll figure it out just in time to graduate driver's ed and request the keys to the Saab.

Before Lula was born, I was terrified at the prospect of raising a girl. What do I know about girls? Dresses, berets, stupid girl games, blah blah blah. Now, I just see my child. Thank god. I was beginning to feel like a real ass. I mean, I still feel like an ass, just one not concerned with the label "Girl." I'm more preoccupied with the label "Father." That, I can handle.

I find myself dreaming of future moments. Rock climbing with her, teaching her to make things from scratch, like waffles or a house, or friends. When I took physics in high school, the concept of potential energy excited me. A bowling ball on the edge of a roof was filled with possibilities. But the abstraction from future event made it even more mysterious and alchemical. I feel the same way about my girl. She's a bowling ball of potential.

Let's go knock down some pins.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

First Days



We spent almost 48 hours in the hospital after Tallulah's birth. Felicity had previously tested positive for Strep B, so she required an antibiotic IV in the birthing suite. Unfortunately, her quick labor did not allow the necessary four hours the drugs needed to be effective. No emergencies, but the physicians wanted to watch over Lula to ensure no infections were present.

This simply meant we stayed in a full-care, catered hotel room whose location was in a hospital. The ridiculous amounts of snow outside further encouraged us to stay and order in. Despite an uncomfortable "sleeper" couch, (awful and misleading name,) we were cozy and all was well. Our only problem was poop. Or, lack thereof.

The meconium, the tar-like first stool lining a newborns gastric tract, had yet to appear. Twenty-four hours came and went. Then thirty-six. No poo. Normally, I'd be fine with an absence of baby crap, but this was beginning to worry us. By the middle of the third day of our stay, our pediatrician called in a surgeon to scope the poop, as it were. She arrived, calmly applied KY to the end of a Q-tip, and, well, did what surgeons do: poke around.

The term "Hershey's geyser" comes to mind. Yet for all the reactions I've had to other people's children, and their doting over waste products, I was somehow elated. Nor have I yet run in the opposite direction of my child's cries, as I've done with other banshee-babies. I remain a mystery to myself. As Whitman wrote, "I contradict myself. Very well. I contradict myself. I am vast. I contain multitudes."

We left the hospital on the 23rd of December, elated and ready to show the world our perfect, pooping child. Then, we discovered that we knew very little about what our little girl could do. I can just imagine her saying to herself, "What do I have to do to get these people to look in my diaper?" or "Can't you distinguish cries for hunger from the need to burp? Get with it!". Well, I can now.

Our super-doula Anna, came by today. She, like us does not celebrate Christmas, and so we had a nice little meeting discussing the finer points of breast feeding, swaddling, and the safest way to shake your baby. Yes, I said "shake the baby." (I enjoy crafting words into sentences which make some blanch if taken in the wrong context. ) All these calming techniques were miracles to new parents just learning how to cope with behaviors we certainly displayed as infants ourselves.

Armed with this info, Felicity, even in her tired state, feels so much more confident with our girl's feeding schedule. I have a penchant for swaddling. "Back in the swaddle, again..." I sing to my daughter as she becomes a human burrito. "Prepare the Korova Bomb Squad" I call to Felice when Lula exhibits rooting behavior.

The names have begun, in earnest: Lula Cady, Lu-Berry, Chicken (?), Chirping Biscuit (her Indian name, as she chirps when satisfied,) and Tallulah Butterdonkey, as in "Tallulah's great, but her donkey..!" This might require a longer explanation than normal attention or interest demands, as do, I suppose, most family maxims and nicknames.

We are, on this Christmas, full to overflowing with pride, love, and joy. These are gifts I wish upon all our friends and readers of this blog during the holidays. May you all find moments which are filled with all three.

Jubilantly,

Bradley, Felicity, & Tallulah




Wednesday, December 24, 2008

The Wonderful and the Sublime


I have only been alive for thirty-eight years. My wife, a few less. But in our short lives few things can compare to the endurance, the sheer physical trial, and the elation of a natural childbirth.

Felicity and I discovered she was pregnant almost immediately upon our return from Spain. It seems we conceived under the shadow of the Alhambra. The fecundity of the region spilled over into our lives in more ways than one.

When we arrived back in the States, we landed in Raleigh-Durham to visit with my parents, Stephen & Carol. While strolling in Chapel Hill we both happened to notice, across the street, the signboard of a local shop; Tallulah's. We both did double-takes. Then turning to each other, uttering the same words almost simultaneously, we said that was a fantastic name for a child, should we ever have a baby girl. We did not know then that we were to have a baby girl in December.

Fast forward: birthing classes with the renown doula, Penny Simkin (www.pennysimkin.com)

A woman with decades of natural and assisted birthing experience, having attended hundreds of births, now aids women and their partners in understanding the complexities of this miraculous process. Felicity and I took her class, were more than favorably impressed, and walked away with a wealth of knowledge. Had we not taken that eight week course, I would have been lost in the murky depths of my wife's incredible labor.

We opted to hire a doula, one Anna Rourke (www.breathwise.com) to assist us both in our decision to bring our daughter to term naturally. And again, what a difference that made.

Felice's labor was quick, by any standards. She went into labor at four pm on the Winter Solstice. Just one day past our due date. Though we had been hoping labor might arrive on this auspicious date, we had no idea what nature had in store. Her labor started quickly, with intense contractions lasting almost two minutes at times, only a minute or two apart. Normally a woman's labor progresses evenly, allowing for a bit of momentum to be gathered and the woman to acclimatize . But hers fell like the heavy snowfall that had turned Seattle into a thickly blanketed frozen tableau.

Knowing the forecast called for almost eight inches of snow, we made sure friends with adequate transportation were standing by. Thank god for Gary and Heather, and their 4x4. By five pm, we were at the birthing center triage who informed us Felicity's cervix had dilated to 9.5cm. One begins to push at 10.

Thus began what I can only describe as the most heroic ballet of pain and collaboration I have ever witnessed. Anna met us at the hospital and guided Felice through a two hour progression, masterfully anticipating contractions, fear, anxiety, and pain. By seven o five, our daughter Tallulah Cadence McDevitt had arrived.

No crying, no frantic search, or panic. Lula was placed on her mother's breast, took her new lung's first breaths, and opened her steel blue eyes to her parent's gaze. Simply magical how the new child knows more about what to do and where to go than we, limpid, afraid adults do after so much experience.

I looked into the eyes of my daughter though glazes of tears, my wife's body involuntarily shaking with surges of adrenaline, and fell deeply in love. No other cloudy emotions to wonder about, or concerns to muddy our presence. Just pure awakeness. Pure being and there-ness. I have no other words to describe it.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Vignettes and Images of Spain

Rear View Mirror: Reminiscences on Andalusia



-An early morning in Seville. As my darling wife slips back to sleep, I stroll down the stairs into the street. The sky is an intense electric blue. I take a new direction through unfamiliar alleys towards the gardens promised on the map. I detour towards a cafe near the garden's entrance. Inside are four well dressed middle aged Spaniards, each with toastadas and cafe con leche. The waiter is tall, elegant, and efficient in movements as in speech. He comes to me. "Digame" he says. "Talk to me." I order my tostada, my coffee. He nods and is off to work. As he makes the order, the other waiter walks by with a large bowl full of freshly washed cockles, still in shells. When my waiter brings the toast, he presents it like a bull fighting torreador, his free hand gesturing in a subtle wave of pride. It is delicious.

-We dine on paella, sip tinto de verano, watch the people walk by. It is a reverse sort of sight seeing, waiting for the sights to arrive rather than seeking them on foot. It is how I prefer to see a city. To wander until you find the right spot for the city to wander past. Here, in the shade of newly leafed trees we lingered at our table. Our adolescent server, between his duties, flirted with friends hovering on the polite outskirts of the courtyard. The day grew hotter. It is Spring, after all.


-Salobrena: A city by the sea. Less than an hour's drive from Granada, the Mediterranean coast holds this hilltop town in it's green plain palm. The castle at its peak is the golden apple we enter the maze of streets to find. This Moorish outpost served as a garrison to the Alhambra; a sort of pre-lookout in the early days of Iberian Homeland Security. The Moors, it seems, had some enemies. If the town's buildings and roads had been in place when the castle's original occupants were alive, no one could have ever found their way up to the walls for siege. We made a few erroneous turns before we were able to visit what we dubed "the Alahambrita". The view, a 360 degree panorama of the Spanish foothills and Mediterranean coast, enjoyed our mostly silent regards.

...more to come...

In Which Team Pants Circumnavigates An Itinerary

Ole, Seville!

We are back to the United States. Currently we lounge in respective comforts at Soggy Acres, the name of my parent's property in North Carolina. We chose to break up our international travel with stops in Durham allowing us to adjust to time changes and process our journey. I believe we chose wisely. Plus, they have a hot tub.

Our last post found us in Granada, pleasantly enjoying the provincial hospitality of our expatriate friends' villa. From there we took the high speed train across the Andalusian plains towards Seville. Upon arrival we made haste to our pension, located in the heart of the old city. After checking in with an adorable and ancient senor who had the high voice of an old woman, we made our way to more foods and thence to the cathedral.

I must find a way to encapsulate the sights and sounds of our travels in a more efficient way than this, for to simply write full sentences and paragraphs skips over so many impressions we gathered. I believe the next post will be just that; a cavalcade of vignettes and impressions, peppered by photographs.

The cathedral surprised us, glimpsing over rooftops as we winded through the bottleneck streets at night. Its height watched us walk the cobblestones between the close walls. When we at last flowed out into the main plaza before it's grandeur we were welcomed by the sounds of a virtuosic classical guitarist. The instrument played off the ancient walls and the monuments. In a mist of natural reverberation and ghosts we strolled away and back again, unable to leave the aural enchantment. We bought his CD. http://www.torkematik.com

I think I could live here, but it would require some frequent visits to the Mediterranean coast, and most certainly to Morocco. Ever since reading Paul Bowles and falling in love with his prose in high school I have wished to travel to North Africa. It is the Moorish influences that attract me most to this part of Europe. I have little in common with Spanish machismo or the fiery passions germane to its natives. I prefer open spaces. I prefer contemplative vistas or complex and graceful architecture. I prefer more fresh vegetables. But to feel the power of this land's antiquity and the relaxing breath of el viento viejo, I yearn to stay.

The morning light is magical. Low, intense, gold and deep saffrons are splashed on everything making the surfaces glow and glimmer. Shadows are long and black. The air is cool, even damp. Breezes are mustered and bother along the streets like sleepless revelers. We take it in and breathe it out. I wish the whole day were morning.


But the days are long and morning only their start. We have learned to ride the ebb of the day's heat during the siesta and plan our days around it's surcease. Upon rising for the second time of the day we feel renewed and as though we have a second morning to explore. A fantastic pace that refreshes and slows our sense of time's passage.

Time is an illusion, siesta doubly so, to paraphrase Douglas Adams. We must press on. We depart Seville early early on a Monday morning. We return to Amsterdam.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

In Which Team Pants Visits the Alhambra

The Alhambra...

Sure, you say...you saw the biggest tourist trap in the city. Sure. We've all been. We know.

But, well...ok. then just look at some photos...how 'bout it?






I'm pleased. Took over 200 photos. These are a few of the good ones.


con amore,

Bradley

Monday, March 31, 2008

In Which Team Pants Click Castanets


Flamenco!

Our hosts, after guiding us through the maze of Granada's street for sumptuous meals, more great drinks and more delicious food, brought us to a tavern in the upper hills frequented by local gypsies. We entered a narrow, white walled, darkly lit cavern with a small stage at the end and were taken to a small table near the front of the room and ordered mas tinto de verana. The crowd's electric buzz created a palpable fission echoing our day's wonder and magic.

A few minutes later, the flamenco guitarist and cantor glided through the crowd to the stage followed by three young dancers in full regalia. They calmly took their seats traditionally placed around the edge of the stage. The guitarist begins to strum with a measured fervor. Someone else claps, beginning the pulse so characteristic of the form. As the beat and music took over the hall one of the dancers, as though vaguely possessed by the rhythmic strain, her face pained with a look of sorrow or lost love, began to slowly stomp and spin her body, flaring the scalloped folds of her long dress. Her eyes opened. She stared into the body of the crowd like she was taunting a slave or teasing a suitor. Her glance, as she danced, occasionally dropped to the floor. Then with a laughing smile, looked up with just her eyes. So dark. So sensual.

We all felt the passion of the dance, the notion of placating tourists for cheap dance dollars now gone from our heads. These people were there to perform something they felt was a part of their souls. They threw their bodies into the dance, the music, the song. The tempo would abruptly rise with the command of the dancer's footfalls, speeding to a crazy rapid blur, and then slow to a beautiful and dulcet pulse. When the dancer sped to the final climax of her dance, all whirring and clacking contrasted with the svelte gyrations of a passion, her triumphant pose seemed more statuesque than any actor I've witnessed. A real source of passion somewhere in these hills, I mused to myself.

Three more dancers, each lovelier than the last, took their turns turning and carving the floorboards of the stage with their heeled shoes. Enchanting and haunting, their eyes might occasionally meet ours and chills would blossom like goose flesh.

A brief pause before the next dancers took the stage. This time we would witness bailaores, male flamenco dancers, who's abilities put all others to shame. He finished his extraordinary dancing with a flare and finish that was soaked in a gentle and graceful humor borne from serious competence. Flawless.

We left the evening singing down the streets, my fingers working the beautiful castanets I purchased from a gypsy outside. Percussing and laughing a staccato, we all danced our own personal flamencos on our way back home.

Saturday, March 29, 2008

In Which Team Pants Kick Ass and Take Names


Upon waking in our pension, the alley below comes into aural focus like a distant television set left on overnight on the Noisy Malaga Street channel. The Andalusian sky; a crystal azul mocked by solitary clouds who defy the expanse of sun-filled sky. The day is ours. We've left Holland behind. The snow, the wet cold, and the mistakes. Oh yes, we made mistakes in Holland. I am a savvy traveler, made all the more so by loosing my wife for forty-five minutes during a snow storm. But I digress...

The autobus North to Granada passes between the small mountains which separate the town from the Mediterranean. Some hills are covered with scrub. Scruffy Brillo pads bereft of greenery, balding like middle aged Greek man in a brash sun. Occasionally we see the ordered olive rows, but I wonder where the grass grows? There is none. The scenery looks like California, and then I remember the spaghetti westerns filmed here, and I say, "ah." "This land was designed by Hollywood executives and producers to appear Old West, without the fuss of paying union wages!"

Arriving in Granada appears much like arriving in Mexico: cheap buildings with advertising written in that machismo font that gives me hives. Until descending into the valley, one might believe it all looked like that. The Franco-inspired, near communist grandeur reflected in the monumental fountains and architecture suggests otherwise. It only hints at a regime's belief that all this ancient city served to highlight their impunity and divine right. But the ancient withstood the brief shadow of dictators as easily as the reigns of caliphs and catholic demagogues. Here are the baths fed by aquaducts still in use, built over one thousand years ago. Here, a catholic church is easily recognized as Muslim in style, bells replacing the muezzin's voice in the arched windows of the tower. Each most likely built on the backs of the poor or enslaved.

Our host's house is magical. Shaped like a U with an open courtyard in the middle, the stairs bring you upwards to a rooftop patio under the gaze of the Alahambra. Upon arriving, we quaff mas tinto des verana (i've butchered the spelling in favor of phonetics) and I get a lesson in slicing Iberian ham. It's placed in a convenient stand and shaved to produce paper thin, succulent slices. These hams are curred three thousand meters above sea level in the dry air of the sierra nevadas. The rare air produces rare flavors and savory "tops" to beverages.

The drinking continues until one in the morning. We weave the streets taking in pubs and tapas, bars and wines, savoring the different scenes as we eat and drink our way through the night.

We sleep like dogs.

Friday, March 28, 2008

In Which Team Pants Arrive in Spain

"No, you don't know."

These were the first words my wife uttered to me when I answered, "I know" to her question, "Do you know how much I have wanted to be here?"

Well, as it turns out, I didn't know. She's alive here in a new way. Not to imply a lack of life elsewhere, stateside and all that. To the contrary; Spain, and most of Europe it seems, evulses a creative surge in my girl's demeanor, her vivre, her happiness. It is no mere accident her name is Felicity. But it is not always evident, say, if you're her dialysis patient trying to refuse treatment, that she's a happy happy girl. It's not always evident that she is searching for the best in everyone. It's not always right at the surface that this woman gives one hundred percent of her energy, all the time, to whom upon which she focuses. She just is; trust me. And here, in Andalusia, the blossoms are in Springtime.

Malaga greets us with a warm, Mediterranean breeze that blows the night's darkness in swirls around the lit lamps and shiny streets. The evening involves us intricately with gentle nudges and eddies that pull us onto further corners of it's glow. Malaga.

Our pensione is called Rosa. La Senora calls to us after we arrive and acknowledges they do have vacancy. "Arriba" she says. From where we are not sure. Felicity thinks senora is behind a door to our left. But I believe she's on the landing above. She is. I say, "Arriba. Si?" "Si." She replies, and we climb the four flights of stairs towards her voice. On the top stair landing we are presented with a lovely, albeit tiny, room with a small balcony overlooking an even tinier (tinyer?) alleyway from which the smells and savory scents of fresh fried fish flow upwards through our open doors. Now, with my wife hungry for Spain and fish, we descend upon the alley with the gusto of a tomcat to the mouse carcass.

Our fat and balding servant does not speak english. That's OK. I'd have been disappointed if he did. I don't speak Spanish. Ha! Far from it. I speak a universally understood colloquial spooge of hand gestures and facial expressions largely gathered from my travels in the U.S. They seem to go over nicely here, except when it comes to verbs and nouns. I defer to my wife.

We did eat. I swear. The fried octopus made me weep. It was bomb diggity good eatin', to paraphrase the Cajun folk. The baby mussells, drowned in butter and lemon juice did for to make a salavation or two. We et. We did depart, well fed. We did expotition. And that's a story for manana. Which brings up the question: how do you spell the word describing the letter N with the funny squiggle cloud over it? Enya? Sail away, sail away, sail away....


I remain,


soup